Biking the Empire State Trail doesn’t have to mean riding all 750 miles across New York. You can experience some of its best scenery on a much shorter trip. The section through the Hudson Valley and into New York City offers wooded rail trails, small towns, lakes and wetlands, the spectacular Walkway Over the Hudson, and surprisingly beautiful scenery almost all the way to the trail’s southern end in the Bronx.
I recently had the chance to experience biking the Empire State Trail on a multi-day trip, carrying my gear in panniers and using trains rather than a support vehicle to connect different parts of the route. One of the things I discovered is just how many ways there are to experience this trail. You can make it a multi-day bicycle tour, use Metro-North trains to create one-way rides, take shorter out-and-back trips from New York City or Poughkeepsie, or combine riding and rail travel to choose the sections that interest you most.
In this guide, I’ll concentrate less on mile-by-mile directions and more on what you can expect when you actually ride the Empire State Trail. I’ll cover trail conditions and scenery, bike rentals, trains, lodging, food, packing for an unsupported trip, and some of the practical lessons I learned along the way.
For maps, trail details, photos, and additional planning information, visit the Trailsnet Empire State Trail page.
One Empire State Trail, Many Trails
The Empire State Trail sounds like one continuous trail, but riders soon discover that it is actually a network of existing trails and newly developed connections joined together into one statewide route. That is especially noticeable while biking the Empire State Trail through the Hudson Valley toward New York City.
Each section has its own character. Some portions feel like classic rural rail trails, while others pass through small towns, wooded suburbs, parks, wetlands, and eventually New York City. Trail names also change along the way, which can occasionally make navigation a little confusing.
From New Paltz south toward New York City, riders may encounter several individually named trails. These include the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail, Hudson Valley Rail Trail, Dutchess Rail Trail, Maybrook Trailway, Putnam Trailway, North County Trailway, South County Trailway, and the trails and greenways that carry the route into New York City.
Empire State Trail Sections from New Paltz to New York City
New Paltz to Poughkeepsie — Hudson Valley Rail Trail and Walkway Over the Hudson
From New Paltz, the Empire State Trail follows a short on-road connection before joining the paved Hudson Valley Rail Trail. The route then reaches one of the highlights of the entire trip, the 1.5-mile Walkway Over the Hudson, which carries cyclists high above the Hudson River into Poughkeepsie.
Poughkeepsie to Hopewell Junction — William R. Steinhaus Dutchess Rail Trail
On the east side of the Hudson, the route continues on the paved Dutchess Rail Trail. This 13.5-mile section travels through wooded areas, parks, and residential communities before reaching Hopewell Junction. Empire State Trail
Hopewell Junction to Brewster — Maybrook Trailway
At Hopewell Junction, the Empire State Trail turns south onto the Maybrook Trailway. This long, largely wooded rail-trail section carries riders through southeastern Dutchess County and into Putnam County toward Brewster.
Brewster through Putnam County — Putnam Trailway
Near Brewster, the route transitions to the Putnam Trailway and continues south through Putnam County. The trail passes through a mixture of forests, communities, lakes, and wetlands on its way toward Westchester County.
Westchester County — North County Trailway and South County Trailway
The North County Trailway carries the Empire State Trail south through northern Westchester County. Farther south, it becomes the South County Trailway, continuing toward Yonkers and the New York City line. Together, these trails provide a remarkably long off-road route through an increasingly populated part of the Hudson Valley. The official Empire State Trail plan identifies both trails as major components of the lower Hudson Valley route. Empire State Trail
The Bronx — Van Cortlandt Park
The Empire State Trail enters New York City through Van Cortlandt Park in the Bronx. One of the biggest surprises of my trip was how scenic the trail remained this far south. Rather than suddenly becoming an urban street ride, the route continues through a beautiful green corridor that can make it hard to believe you’re already in New York City.
Manhattan — Manhattan Greenway to The Battery
Riders continuing beyond the Bronx eventually connect with the Manhattan portion of the Empire State Trail. The final 12.5-mile Manhattan Greenway section follows the west side of Manhattan through Riverside Park, Hudson River Park, and Battery Park City before reaching the official southern end of the Empire State Trail at The Battery.
For detailed maps, current trail conditions, cue sheets, and information about each section, the official Empire State Trail website is an excellent planning resource. You can also find maps and additional trail information on the Trailsnet Empire State Trail page.
How Scenic Is the Empire State Trail?
One of the biggest surprises of my trip was just how scenic the Empire State Trail remained as I traveled south toward New York City. I expected beautiful scenery in the Hudson Valley. What I didn’t expect was for that scenery to continue through Westchester County and right into the Bronx.
Much of the route feels surprisingly removed from the communities surrounding it. Long stretches pass beneath a canopy of trees, alongside streams and wetlands, and through wooded corridors where roads and buildings can seem far away. Old railroad bridges, stonework, and other reminders of the trail’s rail history add even more character.
Perhaps the biggest surprise comes near the southern end. Even after entering New York City, the trail doesn’t immediately become an urban ride. The route through Van Cortlandt Park in the Bronx remains green, wooded, and remarkably peaceful. At times, it’s easy to forget that Manhattan is only a few miles away.
That contrast is one of the things that makes biking the Empire State Trail so memorable. The surroundings gradually change as you travel south, but the transition from the Hudson Valley to New York City is much less abrupt than I expected.
Empire State Trail Conditions, Surfaces, and Difficulty
One of the pleasures of biking the Empire State Trail through the Hudson Valley and toward New York City is how much of the route is separated from automobile traffic. Much of this section follows former railroad corridors, so grades are generally manageable and long stretches allow you to settle into a comfortable pace without constantly dealing with cars.
Trail conditions during my ride were excellent. In fact, a large portion of the route I traveled had been resurfaced within the previous six months, making for exceptionally smooth riding. I also traveled before autumn leaves had fallen in large quantities, so wet or slippery leaves weren’t a problem.
Overall, I would rate the riding conditions as easy. I didn’t encounter any road crossings that felt particularly dangerous. In fact, the trail signage takes a very cautious approach. Riders are instructed to dismount at virtually every crossing, including some that appeared to be little more than access roads used by maintenance vehicles. After a while, those warnings seemed a bit excessive, but I’d much rather have too many warnings than too few.
Weather also cooperated. My first day was misty, but the moisture was light enough that neither my clothing nor anything inside my panniers got wet. The remaining days ranged from cloudy to sunny, with comfortable temperatures for riding.
Wildlife was another pleasant surprise. I encountered a small group of deer along one section and a flock of wild turkeys along another. Combined with the wooded surroundings and relatively quiet trail, encounters like these added to the feeling that I was traveling through the countryside even as the route brought me closer to New York City.
Bike Rentals and Tours for the Empire State Trail
For riders traveling to New York without their own bicycle, finding the right rental bike can make a multi-day trip much easier. I rented my bike for a week from Gotham Bike Tours, a New York company that specializes in bike rentals and tours on the Empire State Trail.
Their rental bikes are set up with multi-day riding in mind. Bikes have rear racks for carrying panniers and puncture-resistant tires. My rental also came with a helmet, bike lock, bungee cord for securing the bike on trains, and a toolkit. The toolkit included a spare tube, patch kit, tire levers, CO2 inflator, and multi-tool.
Gotham also rents panniers, while lights, hand pumps, locks, and other accessories may be available to borrow with a deposit. Riders can even bring their own pedals or seat and have them installed. This makes it possible for someone flying or taking a train to New York to travel relatively light and still have a bicycle equipped for a multi-day trip.
What to Pack for an Unsupported Empire State Trail Bike Trip
One of the advantages of staying in hotels along the Empire State Trail is that you can travel surprisingly light. I managed to fit everything I needed for my trip into a single pannier. It was packed pretty tightly, but it worked perfectly well.
Because I wasn’t camping, I didn’t need to carry a tent, sleeping bag, cooking equipment, or other traditional bike-touring gear. Staying in fully equipped hotels also meant I could leave things like towels and shampoo at home. That made a self-supported trip much easier than it might sound.
I kept clothing to a minimum. One particularly useful item was a pair of convertible pants that could be zipped off into shorts. I also carried enough underwear and socks for the trip, bike gloves, and lightweight rain gear. My rain jacket and rain pants proved their worth on the first day, when I rode through several hours of misty weather.
I brought two small portable bike lights, one for the front and one for the rear, along with a few snacks. For water, I carried two bottles, with one mounted on the bike frame and another on my pannier. The repair tools and spare tube supplied with my rental bike meant I didn’t have to assemble a separate collection of bike tools.
I also packed enough clothing that I didn’t need to do laundry during the trip. For a longer journey, doing laundry along the way would make it possible to travel with a similarly small amount of clothing.
The key is to resist packing for every possible situation. If you’re staying in hotels, eating at restaurants, and traveling through towns where supplies are readily available, you can leave quite a bit at home. For me, traveling with one pannier made getting on and off the bike easier and also simplified the portions of the trip when I took my bike aboard a train.
Where to Stay Along the Empire State Trail
One of the keys to planning a self-supported Empire State Trail trip is finding lodging that works well with a bicycle. I used a combination of an Airbnb and hotels, and all of my overnight accommodations were within about a half mile of the trail or closer.
My first overnight stop was in Stormville, where I stayed at an Airbnb. I then spent two nights at the DoubleTree by Hilton in Poughkeepsie, which gave me an extra day to explore the area. My final hotel stay was at the Days Inn in Elmsford before continuing south toward New York City. I booked both hotels through Booking.com.
None of my lodging was directly on the trail, so reaching each place required at least a little riding on roads and crossing traffic. I didn’t encounter anything particularly difficult, although the road leading to my Airbnb in Stormville had very little shoulder. Fortunately, I arrived in the middle of a weekday when traffic was fairly light.
Before booking lodging, check the exact route between the Empire State Trail and the property rather than simply looking at the distance on a map. A hotel that’s only half a mile from the trail isn’t necessarily a good choice if reaching it requires riding on a busy or bicycle-unfriendly road. I used GPS navigation to help with these short connections, and apps such as Google Maps or Apple Maps can be useful for planning them in advance.
Lodging becomes more limited in some of the less populated portions of the route. In particular, there aren’t many places to stay close to the trail between Brewster and Poughkeepsie. Farther south, especially as you approach Yonkers and New York City, there are considerably more options. I also passed a couple of hotels located very close to the trail, even though I didn’t stay at them.
In fact I noticed two lodging options farther south that were literally alongside the trail. Ardsley Acres Hotel Court in Ardsley sits directly beside the trail, allowing cyclists to reach the property without having to ride on surrounding roads. Yonkers Gateway Motel gets mixed review so may not be ideal for most trail travelers. I didn’t stay at either of these lodgings myself, so I can’t personally recommend the accommodations, but their locations certainly caught my attention as I rode past.
This is another place where combining bicycling with train travel can be useful. Rather than letting the locations of hotels determine how far you have to ride each day, Metro-North can help bridge longer sections and keep daily mileage at a comfortable level. That flexibility makes it much easier to design an Empire State Trail trip around your own abilities and interests.
Food and Water Along the Empire State Trail
Food is one part of an Empire State Trail trip that requires a little advance planning. Although the trail passes through numerous towns and communities, restaurants and stores aren’t always located directly beside the trail. In some areas, you can ride quite a few miles without passing an obvious place to stop for a meal.
I recommend scouting out possible food stops ahead of time using a mapping or navigation app. Pay attention not only to how far a restaurant or store is from the trail, but also to its hours and the roads you’ll need to ride to reach it. A restaurant that looks close on a map may be less convenient if getting there requires riding on a busy road.
Brewster is one of the more convenient places to find food, whether you arrive there by bicycle or Metro-North. One option close to the trail is Country Kitchen Restaurant. However, don’t assume that every restaurant will be open when you arrive, particularly if you’re planning an early start or late arrival. Check current hours as part of your daily planning.
Other food and shopping options can be found in and around places such as Stormville, Poughkeepsie, Elmsford, Yonkers, and the Bronx. In many cases, though, you’ll need to leave the trail and ride at least a short distance on local streets.
I carried a few snacks in my pannier so I wasn’t completely dependent on finding food at a particular time. I also recommend carrying at least one water bottle and preferably two. I traveled with two bottles, one mounted on the bike and another attached to my pannier. Having extra water provided some peace of mind on the longer and more isolated stretches.
Overall, food and water were never a serious problem on my trip, but I wouldn’t leave them entirely to chance. A few minutes of planning each morning can prevent a long, hungry detour later in the day.
Side Trips Along the Empire State Trail
One of the pleasures of biking the Empire State Trail is that the trail itself isn’t the only attraction. There are historical sites, college campuses, small towns, parks, and other places worth exploring along the way. Even if you don’t have time for a major side trip, there are plenty of reasons to get off the bike for a few minutes.
I particularly enjoyed the historical signs scattered along the route. They provided an excuse to stop, stretch my legs, and learn a little about the communities, railroads, and landscapes I was traveling through. There were also numerous ponds, lakes, streams, bridges, and other scenic spots where I stopped to take photographs.
As I got closer to New York City, I also noticed a number of short trails branching away from the Empire State Trail and leading into nearby communities. Some simply entered residential neighborhoods, while others provided opportunities to explore the towns along the route. Don’t assume every trail connection leads to restaurants or stores, but they can be enjoyable diversions if you have some extra time.
Walkway Over the Hudson
The Walkway Over the Hudson is much more than a convenient way to get across the river. The former railroad bridge stretches 1.28 miles across the Hudson and rises more than 200 feet above the water, providing spectacular views in both directions. It’s one of those places where it’s worth slowing down, stopping the bike, and enjoying the scenery rather than simply trying to make miles.
The Walkway also has historical displays, and its Poughkeepsie side provides access to the waterfront by elevator. Bicycles are permitted on the elevator, making it possible to explore the waterfront or reach the nearby Poughkeepsie train station.
Poughkeepsie and the Culinary Institute of America
Poughkeepsie makes a particularly good place to spend an extra day because there are several attractions in the surrounding area. I stayed there for two nights, which gave me a chance to take a break from the bike and explore.
One of my side trips was to the Culinary Institute of America in nearby Hyde Park. The beautiful Hudson River campus is a destination in its own right, with restaurants, a bakery café, and other opportunities for visitors to experience one of America’s best-known culinary schools. If you plan to eat at one of the restaurants, check schedules and make reservations well ahead of your visit.
Vassar College
Another Poughkeepsie-area diversion is Vassar College. The historic campus is worth exploring for its architecture and landscaped grounds, particularly if you’re spending an extra day in Poughkeepsie rather than immediately continuing down the trail. The campus also includes the Frances Lehman Loeb Art Center, which is open to the public and offers free admission. BTW, I used an Uber/Lyft to get from my hotel to Vassar.
Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow
Farther south, Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow offer one of the most interesting opportunities to combine an Empire State Trail trip with local history and literature. Sleepy Hollow is forever associated with Washington Irving and The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, and the area makes an especially interesting diversion for anyone who enjoys American literature, history, or Halloween traditions.
Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is the final resting place of Washington Irving as well as many other notable Americans. The cemetery is also a beautiful historic landscape, but remember that it remains an active cemetery and should be visited respectfully. Check current visiting hours before making the trip. This side trip is a ways off the Empire State Trail. I utilized a North Metro train from Poughkeepsie, then I rode the fairly rigorous uphill route on roads and the North County Trail to get back to the main trail.
A couple of additional possibilities
Near Hyde Park, riders interested in history could consider the Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site or Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site. The official Walkway map puts them about 4.4 and 6.3 miles north of the Poughkeepsie entrance, respectively.
Around Tarrytown, Lyndhurst Mansion is another possibility, with its Gothic Revival mansion, grounds and Hudson River setting. I wouldn’t include Rockefeller State Park Preserve as a cycling diversion because bicycles aren’t permitted on its carriage roads, although it could work for someone deliberately taking a day off the bike.
Best Times to Bike the Empire State Trail
The best time to bike the Empire State Trail depends partly on what you’re looking for. Summer offers long days and warm weather, while autumn brings the spectacular fall colors for which the Hudson Valley is famous. Peak foliage varies from year to year, but October is generally the prime season for fall color in this part of New York.
If avoiding crowds is more important than seeing peak foliage, consider one of the shoulder seasons. Late spring and early summer, before schools let out for the summer, can be good choices. Another option is late September or early autumn, before the peak fall-color crowds arrive.
That’s when I made my trip, and the trail was remarkably quiet. I rode entirely on weekdays and sometimes traveled for more than an hour without seeing another person. The combination of weekday riding and shoulder-season timing gave me an almost empty trail on many stretches.
There are tradeoffs to traveling outside peak season. Later in autumn, fallen leaves can cover the trail and become slippery when wet. Days also become noticeably shorter. If you travel in spring, weather can be less predictable. Whatever time of year you choose, check the forecast and current trail conditions before setting out.
The day of the week can make a difference as well. If your schedule allows it and you prefer a quieter ride, I recommend riding Monday through Friday rather than relying entirely on weekends. My weekday experience was peaceful, uncrowded, and one of the highlights of the trip.
Final Thoughts on Biking the Empire State Trail
You don’t have to ride all 750 miles of the Empire State Trail to have a great bicycle adventure. The Hudson Valley and New York City sections offer an impressive combination of scenery, history, small towns, wildlife, rail-trail riding, and easy access to one of the world’s great cities.
What surprised me most was how easy it was to put together a self-supported trip. With a rental bike, one pannier, hotels along the route, and trains to connect different sections, I could create an itinerary that fit the distances I wanted to ride without needing a car or support vehicle.
Just as surprising was how scenic the trail remained as I traveled south. Even as I approached New York City, long stretches remained wooded, peaceful, and separated from traffic. Entering the Bronx didn’t mean the end of the greenway experience.
My biggest advice is to plan the details that matter most before you leave: lodging, food stops, train connections, and the short routes between the trail and the places you want to visit. After that, leave yourself enough time to enjoy the things you didn’t plan, whether that’s reading a historical marker, watching deer beside the trail, exploring a small town, or simply stopping beside a lake to take a photograph.
For maps, route information, and additional planning resources, visit the Trailsnet Empire State Trail page and the official Empire State Trail website.
